So, you've got the driver installed and want to see what you can do with it. What next? Well, if you are using the latest version of the interception driver, it includes a Wizard that will give you some starting settings to give a shot. They are calibrated based on your mouse DPI, and it should effectively double your sensitivity as you approach flick speeds. If you'd rather tweak settings on your own, you can follow these instructions:
First thing's first - click the Settings dropdown menu followed by "Set USB refresh rate". Choose whatever your mouse is running at. Do the same thing for Mouse DPI. Note that the USB refresh rate option will change the way your curve looks, but changing it in the GUI won't affect what your mouse actually polls at. DPI here is solely for reference in the GUI/screenshots of the GUI - it has no impact on your mouse or the graph otherwise.
The rest of this guide will limit discussion to the basic options (acceleration, sensitivity cap, and post-scale x/y) that most people will want to use. All other options will be left at the defaults.
First, hop into your game of choice. Take it out of fullscreen and get into a game mode where you can look around without worrying about people killing you.
I'll assume a simple intended use case: you want to have decent medium to long range tracking with hitscan weapons, but still be able to flick a 180 when needed. I have Quake/Reflex/Overwatch players in mind, but this could apply to many other games. Counterstrike players might want to have lower sensitivities and more accel than I'm suggesting in this starting guide, but feel free to tweak no matter what game you are playing.
Are you a low sensitivity player (i.e.: 20"+ of mousepad to a 360)? If so, follow direction set
A). Otherwise, follow direction set
B).
Direction set A) for low sens players:Since you have a low sensitivity, I assume you're going to want to keep your existing low speed tracking sensitivity and find a new comfortable flick mouse sensitivity. Make sure your current sensitivity is familiar to you in game for tracking, and we'll keep your in-game sensitivity setting the same and post-scale x/y the same (1's).
Try setting the sensitivity cap to 2, and set acceleration to something crazy high like 10 (this won't be permanent). Effectively what will happen is that your in game sensitivity will have doubled. Give flicks a test and see if you can get comfortable doing a 180. Don't worry about doing any smooth tracking with this yet. Move the sensitivity cap up/down a bit until you find something that works for flicks.
Next, change the acceleration to 0.01. How does that feel? Does it take too long to get to the high sensitivity? Raise it a bit to 0.02 or 0.03. Does it go up too quickly? Lower it. Tweak to your heart's content while practicing flicks, long range tracking, medium range tracking, and close range tracking.
Once you find something you like, be sure to save your profile. It's always worth saving your profiles as sequential numbers just so that you can come back to them if you decide you don't like any recent tweaks you've made.
Hypothetically, let's say you want to change your low end mouse sensitivity and keep your flick sensitivity the same. Go under the "Settings" dropdown menu and check the boxes for "Scale Accel with Post-Scale X" and "Scale SensCap with Post-Scale X". Next, tweak your Post-scale X/Y values a little bit. Your curve should keep the same slope and max sensitivity.
Direction set B) for medium to high sens players:You most likely installed this driver because you want to have better tracking for long to medium range, but you want to keep your muscle memory the same for flicks. So, we'll start out by making sure you can comfortably do a 180 with a flick you are used to. For reference, it takes me 5 inches of mousepad to do a 180. Keep the driver settings default while you adjust in-game sensitivity accordingly.
Now that you've got a flick you are happy with, go under the "Settings" dropdown menu and check the boxes for "Scale Accel with Post-Scale X" and "Scale SensCap with Post-Scale X". While you're at it, also check the box for "Lock Post-Scale Y to Post-Scale X" (unless you want to have a different vertical sensitivity from horizontal). Set your "Sensitivity Cap" value to 1, "Acceleration" to 0.01, and click "Save Changes" (this won't immediately do anything, but it's required, trust me).
Next, try setting your dropping your Post-Scale X sensitivity to 0.5. How does that feel? Can you still do a 180 in a flick comfortably? If not, raise your acceleration. If it feels like the sensitivity raises too quickly, lower the acceleration. It's all tweaking from here. Mess around with different values for the Post-Scales and try out tracking targets at different distances.
Once you find something you like, be sure to save your profile. It's always worth saving your profiles as sequential numbers just so that you can come back to them if you decide you don't like any recent tweaks you've made.
Ending notesAfter you've spent all this time tweaking your mouse sensitivity for one game, you wouldn't want to do the same thing for other games, right? Be sure to use
http://www.mouse-sensitivity.com/ to find out what one game's setting should be for another. All you'll need to take over is the in-game sensitivity setting, and your accel settings should feel perfectly at home (barring any poor programming/built in game accel/etc). Using that site, all I ever need to do to get comfortable in a new game is enter my Quake sensitivity of 1.15 and find out what the equivalent is in another game.
The AsRock EXTREME6 is a great choice for anyone who wants room to upgrade and add more hardware in the future, plus it has gone down in price this month by about $20.
The Western Digital Blue series of hard drives have been used in my builds for quite some time and with good reason. This 1TB drive will have plenty of room to store a ton of gaming media.
I have included the Phantom series of cases before, and this month, this particular green trim full tower Phantom has dropped to a cheap $99. This made this Phantom case a great choice in order to fit all of the high performing hardware into this build. Plus it has a ton of space to keep adding hardware in the future!
